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Albemarle County History

Across this lovely landscape are landmarks, celebrated and obscure, by ways where one can feel a personal intimacy with the nation's founders and spectacular Albemarle County real estate.

Writing in 1781, Jefferson says of the Virginia architecture of his day: "The private buildings are very rarely constructed of stone or brick.

It is impossible to devise things more ugly, uncomfortable, and happily more perishable.

There are two or three plans, on one of which, according to its size, most of the houses in the State are built. The genius of architecture seems to have shed its maledictions over this land."

This was soon to change.

As the wilderness was cleared and the merchants began to prosper in the early 19th century, Charlottesville was soon acknowledged as the fairest Georgian city of the New World; and Jefferson would lead this architectural revolution.

ALBEMARLE COUNTY'S FIRST SETTLERS

 

The settlement of Piedmont was long delayed.

As the watercourses were the natural arteries of travel, civilization at first clung to the streams and bays of the lower country.

For more than a century the Commonwealth had no town of importance, and even in the tidewater counties, where rich plantations stretched for miles along the banks of creek and river, roads into the interior were few and primitive.

Under these conditions, the falls and rapids of the upper streams were effectual barriers to colonization.

Of the wanderers who first drifted to our hills, we have no more record than of the wild fowl, which at that time darkened our waters.

Probably, the especially daring trapper, or the fugitive from justice, reached the high lands at an early date, but it was not until 1717 that white men made a recorded passage of the Blue Ridge.

The records of Governor Spottswood's gay and chivalrous company show that these explorers followed the valley of the Rapidan, thus passing to the north of Albemarle.

It was probably by ascending the headwaters of the Rivanna that they reached Swift Run Gap, in Greene County, by which they descended into the Valley.

After this expedition, the tide of population set rapidly westward, and adventurers and frontiersmen were soon penetrating the dense forest tracts of upper Virginia.

The first patents within the present boundaries of Albemarle were made in 1727, but before this the region had been entered, up the streams of the South Anna, the James, the Rivanna and the Hardware, and the log hut of the hunter had begun to rise in sheltered hollows or beside bold springs.

The life of these early comers was similar to that of the frontiersmen of other States.

The streams swarmed with fish of many kinds, including shad and herring in their season; water-fowl, wild turkeys, pigeons and (doves were incredibly plentiful, and deer, elk and bear were abundant.

The Blunderbuss - A Hunter's Savior

From the buffalo trails which crossed the Blue Ridge at Simon's Gap, Jarman's Gap, Beagle's Gap and Rockfish, we can infer that these creatures had formerly been numerous, and that they perhaps were still to be met with.

Dr. Edgar Woods, in his valuable History of Albemarle, calls attention to the many local names Turkey Run. Buck Mountain, Buffalo Meadow, Beaver Dam, Bear Creek, Pigeon Top, Elk Run, which bear witness to this profusion of animal life.

Edgehill Mountain was formerly known as Wolf Trap Mountain, which from a large pit near the mountain's top, on the farm of Elisha Thurman, was used for this purpose.

In a community where money was rarely handled, and the recognized mediums of exchange were tobacco and skins, hunting was regarded as a profession requiring great skill.

Kercheval tells us that: "The fall and early part of the winter was the season for hunting the deer, and the whole of the winter, including part of the spring, for bears and fur-skinned animals.

It was a customary saying that fur is good during every month in the name of which the letter R occurs.

"An important part of a boy�s education, at this Hunting time, was the imitating of the calls of bird and beast.

By the gobbling and other sounds of wild turkeys, these keen-eyed and ever watchful fowl were often brought within reach of the rifle;the bleating of the fawn brought its death in the same way, or a wolf-howl would draw response from a concealed but near-by pack."

The rifle of antiquated make was long used with great skill in our mountain hollows. Miss Margaret Rogers, of Greenwood, gives this incident, which she heard from her uncle, Mr. Wm. Wallace:

"One of the old-time mountaineers, who was a famous hunter, was never known to purchase bullets for his rifle, or lead for casting them.

When questioned, he was evasive, but at length in confidence he told Mr. Wallace that he dug all the lead he wanted from the mountain-side, "as his father had, fore him."

In proof of this assertion, on a later visit to civilization, he brought with him a chunk of lead the size of a man's hand and the thickness of his finger, and showing the axe with which it evidently had been chopped.

He intimated that he would bequeath to Mr. Wallace this vein, but at his death nothing was left.

albemarle historic homes  

Edgemont in Cismont

During the early years of the County, the scalps of wolves were reported in large numbers.

One hundred and forty pounds of tobacco were allowed for the scalp of an old wolf, and seventy-five for that of a young one, that is, one under six months Wolves old.

Later, the awards were made in money.

These reports are preserved in the County records, and continue with more or less regularity down to 1849, when Isaac W. Garth was awarded twelve dollars for killing an old wolf. Jonathan Barksdale, Samuel Jameson, William Ramsey and Ryland Rodes are the names, which appear most frequently in this connection. [Woods' History of Albemarle]

THE GREAT LAND OWNERS OF ALBEMARLE COUNTY

In 1727 the County of Goochland, which included present Albemarle, was founded.

On June 16, 1727, George Hoomes obtained a grant of thirty-one hundred acres, and Nicholas Meriwether one of. thirteen thousand seven hundred and sixty-two acres, "at the first ledge of mountains called Chestnut."

This was the first appropriation of the soil of Albemarle.

These grants lay east of the Rivanna. Two years later, Dr. George Nicholas obtained a grant for 2600 acres situated on the James, and including the present site of the village of Warren.1

These investors in wilderness lands were wealthy men who already had large holdings in the eastern counties.

During the next ten years others of the same class followed them, many of who regarded their great patents as speculation, or a provision for younger sons, and did not expect immediately to occupy the land.

Secretary John Carter whose name is still attached to his first holding, Carter's Mountain, Col. Thomas Carr, John Minor, Peter Jefferson whose name is perpetuated in Peter's Mountain, Charles Hudson, Wm. Randolph and the Lewis's were among these earliest patentees.

Settlers also soon pushed in from the West, and in 1734 Michael Woods and his son-in-law William Wallace patented large tracts near Woods Gap; they having been the first to enter across the Blue Ridge from the Valley.

 

Ivy Creek Episcopal Church

During the first years of the County, its activities, both social and political, were centered in a few plantations, whose owners were men of great prominence.

 It is only through acquaintance with these typical homes that we can understand the life of that day.

One such famous house is Viewmont, which is believed to be the oldest building still standing in the County.

We do not know the date of its construction, but its owner, Col. Joshua Fry, was living there near Carter's Bridge, in a group of fine trees, and surrounded by outbuildings of great age, it is a true picture of old-world simplicity.

Mr. Wm. Duke, past owner of Sunnyside, states that the frame house was originally loop-holed,

[The present windows are high, but only two square panes in width, suggesting widened slits] and that a depression still to be seen in the lawn, and which leads towards the woods, is supposed to have been a tunnel by which water was obtained, or communication secured, during attack.

On the east gable, a great chimney, standing sixteen and a half feet at base and a yard deep, is a beautiful and perfect example of Colonial masonry, the large and mellowed brick being laid in true Flemish bond.

And within the house, the carved wainscoting and mantels, and the graceful stair, show it to have been the home of a family of dignity and position.

We do not know if Viewmont, Castle Hill and the Old House at Edgehill were constructed by one of these designs, though they have similarities, which suggest a common origin.

If they were in Mr. Jefferson's mind at the time of his stricture, we can only wonder that some memory of their roof- lines or gable-ends did not rise to modify the denunciation.

The builder and owner of Viewmont was Col. Joshua Fry, of whom it has been said that no other person in the State of like social position, wealth, capacity and public service has been so neglected by posterity.

Col. Fry was born in England, and had the great advantage of an Oxford education. Coming early to this country, his career was one of extraordinary industry and energy, even at a time when the usual life of a Virginia planter was diversified and full.

A professor of mathematics at William and Mary, he was a surveyor of note, and served as Commissioner of the Crown on a number of arduous expeditions.

He was also one of the Commissioners for Virginia at the Treaty of Logansport, and served in the House of Burgesses.

Taking a prominent part in the formation of Albemarle County, he was appointed Surveyor for the county, a position which, in an unsettled region; of virgin forest, entailed severe labor.

He was also presiding Justice of the Peace, and County Lieutenant an office which originally was known as Commander of the Plantations, and was one of high authority, the incumbent being virtually Governor of the County, with power to call out the militia and to order court martials.

It is, however, upon Col. Fry's reputation as a soldier that his fame is based.

Upon the outbreak of the French and Indian war of 1754, he was appointed Commander of the Virginia forces, and served as Colonel of the Virginia Regiment in which the youthful Washington was next in command.

Upon this expedition Col. Fry died, after a short illness caused by a fall from his horse, May 31st, 1754.

At this place Wills Creek, near Cumberland, Md. he was buried, in what was then a wild and remote region. Washington and his army attended the funeral.

On a large oak tree 5, (which in 1880 was still standing), Washington cut the following inscription: Under this tree lies the body of THE GOOD, THE JUST AND THE NOBLE FRY.

In 1786, John Fry sold Viewmont to Gov. Edmund Randolph, who spent much time there for twelve years. It was then sold to Wm. C. Carter, and later became the property of John Harris.

4. Stated by his biographer and descendant, Rev. Philip Slaughter, D.D. Washington had pushed on in advance as far as Port Necessity, Pa., but it might have been possible to cover the fifty or so miles between them on such an occasion especially as the command now devolved upon him. 5.

This tree has since fallen, and Col. Fry's body has been removed to Rose Hill Cemetery, Cumberland, where his grave bears a marker.

Perhaps the largest owner of Albemarle land was Nicholas Meriwether. In addition to large estates in the lower country, he took out successive grants amounting to nineteen thousand acres in Albemarle.

In 1735 he was granted 1020 acres west of the Rivanna, and lying along the stream, from Moore's Creek to Meadow Creek.

For this he paid to George II the sum of "twenty-one pounds good and lawful money." (The Colonial pound was not the pound sterling, and amounted only to $3.33).

He also was required to pay to the Crown, for each fifty acres, a fee rent of one shilling yearly, to be rendered upon the feast of Saint Michael the Arch Angel, it being distinctly stated that he was not required to render Knight's Service.

On this tract, Meriwether built the Old House at The Farm, where he lived until his death in 1744. The location of this first building is not known, but it was probably near the spring, and opposite the hill, which bears the present dwelling.

This was the first plantation west of the river, and its name is believed to have originated from the fact that as the surrounding territory was still virgin forest, the cleared spot was a conspicuous landmark.

albemarle farms

Nicholas Lewis Farm circa 1926

The present house at The Farm was built in 1828 by Mr. John A. G. Davis, of the University. In the same year, and by the same plan, that Edgehill was built.

The design having been made some years before by Jefferson for the use of his son-in-law, Gov. Thomas Mann Randolph.

At Meriwether�s death, The Farm passed to his Nicholas Lewis, uncle of the explorer, and its owners play a prominent part in the records of that day. Nicholas Lewis's wife was Mary, daughter of Dr. Walker of Castle Hill, and the following anecdote suggests that she had inherited something of her father s spirit: At the time of Tarleton's raid, her husband was absent in the Revolutionary army.

Her home was made the British cavalryman s headquarters, an unenviable distinction.

Mrs. Lewis is said to have received Col. Tarleton with dignity and spirit, and to have told him that he should meet Virginia s men in the field, rather than war on her defenseless women.

Apparently the rebuke was felt, for during the eighteen hours of his stay there was no damage of importance.

However, after his departure, she learnt that his soldiers had made way with her fine flock of ducks, leaving only the veteran drake.

She promptly ordered a servant to take the drake and ride after Tarleton, presenting it with her compliments and stating that as its comrades were gone, he had better take it too.

Appreciating the sting of the message, he accepted it with gracefully ironic thanks and a bow to the saddle-bow, and the little passage at arms noticeably softened Mrs. Lewis's resentment, as was shown by her ever after preserving the chair he had used.

(This little episode was immensely popular with the writers of the period as it appears and re-appears in accounts of the raid.

In affectionate amusement, her family gave her the name of "Captain Moll," by which she is widely referred to.)

In 1741 the estate of Castle Hill passed through marriage into the hands of Dr. Thomas Walker of King and Queen County.

From this time on he was one of the most prominent men of the region, and as physician, surveyor, planter, importer, explorer, soldier and politician, his life was one of extraordinary activity.

He was for years Indian Commissioner, and conducted for the Government many large transactions in the purchase of lands.

Copies of these deeds of transfer, with the "marks" of Indian chiefs (rude representations of turtle, deer and wolf) are preserved by a branch of his descendants.

A spot in the garden of Castle Hill is still pointed out as the scene of his conferences with visiting chieftains.

As a planter, he is believed to have introduced into Albemarle from New York the apple since so famous as the Albemarle Pippin.

albemarle farm castle hill

Castle Hill

Dr. Walker was the first white man to enter Kentucky, his expedition having preceded both Gist's and Daniel Boone's.

Having been employed by a London company to explore a huge tract which is had purchased in the Wilderness, he got together a band consisting of six men, eight horses and a pack of valuable dogs, and started West in the early spring of 1750.

The expedition covered a period of four months, and was one of thrilling adventure.

In the concluding entry in his Journal, Dr. Walker states: "We killed 13 buffaloes, 8 elks, 53 bears, 20 deer, 4 wild geese, about 150 turkeys, besides small game.

We might have killed three times as much meat if we had wanted it."

William Cabell Rives, in his preface to Dr. Walker's Journal, says: "Castle Hill was built by Dr. Walker in 1765, and stands today in excellent preservation.

This house is still the home of some of the descendants of its first owner, who do honor to their lineage.

For generations it has been the seat of hospitality and culture. The slow growing box-trees, with archway cut through their evergreen sides, which border the lawn, have climbed to the height of more than thirty feet, and tell the story to the most casual observer of the long years of their gradual ascent.

The small panes of glass in the venerable-looking windows, and the large brass door-locks of the house, were brought from London when Virginia was a Colony.

A frequent visitor to Castle Hill was John Marshall.

albemarle va home owner  

John Marshall - First Chief Justice of the United States

In the ample hall, the youthful, music-loving Jefferson played the fiddle, while the still younger Madison danced. Here the doors have opened to welcome five men who either were to be, or were already, Presidents of the United States, and to many statesmen, judges, diplomats and soldiers.

In this home, in 1794, the old pioneer, near the end of his eightieth year, closed his eyes on earthly scenes."

Dr. Walker was the father of twelve children, most of who married into Albemarle families, where they and their descendants have played an honorable part in the history of the County.

In 1734, Michael Woods, with his wife, sons and sons-in-law, and their families, entered the County from the west.

This little band of twenty-five or thirty persons, young and old, coming from Pennsylvania by way of the Shenandoah Valley, had traveled about 225 miles, and are believed to have been the first whites to cross through Woods Gap now Jarman's Gap by the old Indian trail.

Spreading over the adjacent lands, they took up large holdings from Ivy to Greenwood.

At this time their nearest and only neighbors on the west were the two year-old clearing of John Lewis, near where Staunton now stands; while to the east, the forest was unbroken between them and the plantations around Scott�s Ferry and Keswick.

Under these primitive conditions, it is not surprising that it was in such chaos until 1737, that Michael Woods made formal entry of his lands.

In that year be obtained a crown grant of 1337 acres, and also purchased from Charles Hudson 2,000 acres on Ivy Creek.

The original name of the Michael Woods home plantation was Mountain Plains.

(The Mountain Blair Plains Church having been built on a part of the Parkland, and named in commemoration).

Unfortunately, with the passing of the property to Chief Justice John Blair, prior to 1788, the name of the home was changed, and it has since been known as Blair Park.

A descendant of the first Michael, and a cane, once the property of the old pioneer, now owns it. is now cherished there.

Old Michael was the ancestor of the Holkam family of Woodses, of Dr. Edgar Woods, author of The History of Albemarle, and of many other branches, which in Albemarle, Virginia and the West have played a worthy part in the life of their day.

It has been calculated that more than 160 of these have been in the ministry of the different denominations.9

  

Edgemont in Keene

With the passage of a few decades, the majority of the great early grants were much reduced. Inheritance and sale had cut them into more numerous plantations, which, however, were still of hand- some acreage. Many of the old County places first came under cultivation about this time.

Though the distinguished John Carter (Son of 'King Carter" of eastern Virginia, and Secretary of the Colony), was the owner of nearly ten thousand acres in Albemarle, and as much more in what is now Amherst, he never resided in the upper country.

He, however, maintained two establishments, on his Albemarle property, both being plentifully supplied with slaves.

One of these was the Mill tract on the north fork of the Hardware; the other, known as Clear Mount, may have been the site of Blenheim or of Redlands10.

In the Letters of a British Officer we are told that Blenheim was named for the battle of that name.

Secretary Carter left this property to his second son, Edward, who lived there for many years and represented the County in the House of Burgesses with Dr. Thomas Walker from 1767 to 1769. He also served in the House of Delegates with George Nicholas11 in 1788.

albemarle county farm

The Barracks

During the time of the presence of the Convention prisoners at The Barracks, Capt. Philips, the British commander, was stationed at Blenheim, and we are told that at that time Col. Carter owned 1500 slaves.

Blenheim

Robert, son of Col. Edward Carter, built on the southern portion of his father's large estate Redlands in 1789. Mr. Jefferson is said to have influenced the design of this beautiful mansion.

Another plantation, which was formed from the Carter estate, was Indian Camp, now known as Morven.

Wm. Champe Carter sold this property in 1796 to William Short of Philadelphia, an ex-Revolutionary officer and Minister to The Hague under Washington.

The selling price was 1567 pounds, 9 shillings.

In 1813 Col. Short sold it to David Higginbotham, who changed the name to Morven and built the present brick house about 1820.

The plans are said to have been furnished by Mr. Jefferson, who also ordered for it from Paris the mantel of Carrara marble, which still adorns the drawing room.

The quaint cottage, which stands on the grounds, is no doubt the "old house."

A part of Indian Camp is now the well-known Ellerslie.

albemarle historic homes  

Ellerslie

The Nicholas Meriwether grant was soon partitioned and part of which went to the young widow of Nicholas III, and became, upon her marriage to Dr. Walker, the Castle Hill estate.

This in turn was subdivided many times, Cismont, Castalia, Music Hall, Belvoir, 12 Kinloch, Merrie Mill, Keswick,13 Edgeworth, Cobham Park, The Creek and Machunk 14 being some of the resulting plantations.

Through David Meriwether, another son of old Nicholas, the plantation of Clover Fields is traced.

The first dwelling here was built in 1760 by Col. Clover, Nicholas Meriwether�s, great grandson of the original Fields owner.

This Nicholas was noted for his courage and decision in times of danger. In 1755 he was one of four soldiers belonging to the Virginia Regiment who bore the wounded General Braddock from the field after his defeat near Pittsburgh.

(Col. Meriwether later received from the General's sister in Ireland a gold-laced, embroidered military dress coat, which had belonged to the General, and which was long preserved as a relic in the Meriwether family.)

William Meriwether, "the bridge builder," was a scion of this home.

He constructed the first bridge at Rio Hill, and also the first on the stage line near the present Woolen Mills.

It is related that upon occasional protests from the stage companies over his toll-rate, he would composedly take up the flooring of his bridge, and allow the difficulties of Secretary's Ford to present his point of view...an argument which was invariably very effective.

The present brick dwelling was built about 1846.

Clover Fields is one of the few early plantations which has descended in the original family.

The Randolph grant of 2400 acres, lying between Shadwell and Belmont15 was one of the earliest in the County, having been obtained "a few days earlier" than that of Peter Jefferson, in 1735.

The family, however, did not have residence here until 1790, when Col. Thomas Mann Randolph, Jr., and the grandson of the original owner built the old house.

Colonel afterwards Governor Randolph, was Jefferson s son-in-law, and though he had large estates on James River he practically lived at Edge-hill, in order to be near Jefferson, whose property he largely directed during his many absences.

In 1828 the present mansion was erected by Coy. Randolph, from plans drawn for his daughter by Mr. Jefferson.

At this time the old house was moved back to the position it now occupies. For many years it served as the schoolhouse for the famous Edgehill School.

Two magnificent leaning tulip trees are said to have been promising saplings at the time of this move, and to have been bent down to permit the building to pass over them.

The view at Edgehill is said to be very similar to that at Edgehill, Warwickshire, for which it was named.

albemarle va farm

Edgehill

In 1771, Dr. George Gilmer of Williamsburg married Lucy, a daughter of Dr. Walker of Castle Hill, and settled in Charlottesville for the practice of his profession.

He was a successful and prominent physician, and counted both Jefferson and Madison among his patients.

Following the custom of his age, he was also active in politics, having served with distinction in the House of Burgesses in the stormy years preceding the Revolution.

He also served as Sheriff in 1787.

We are told that during the War Dr. Gilmer attempted to turn his knowledge of chemistry to account in the manufacture of gunpowder.

He writes to Jefferson that his powder "is full strong," but he cannot grain it.

Mrs. Gilmer, a younger sister of the widely known "Captain Moll" of The Farm, seems to have been endowed with at least an equal share of their distinguished father's spirit.

In the early years of the War she is said to have given her jewels to Jefferson, to be used for certain expenses of the cause.

At the time of Tarleton's Raid, Dr. Gilmer was not at home.

When the British troops entered Charlottesville a guest of the Gilmer�s, doubtless a member of the Legislature mounted his horse and attempted to escape.

He was shot down and carried off by the enemy, and was at first reported to have been killed.

Learning a few hours later that he was still alive, Mrs. Gilmer at once determined to go to his aid.

Accompanied only by a maiden sister, she made her way perilously through the streets of the village, then filled with drunk and disorderly troopers, and forced her way into the presence of Tarleton himself.

The Colonel was so impressed by her courage that he sends his own surgeon to dress the bleeding and insensible man, and then restored him to her care.

He recovered, to serve gallantly his country.

From Jefferson's letters we learn that in 1786 Dr. Gilmer purchased from John Harvie the plantation of Pen Park16

Here he spent the remainder of his life, his home being noted throughout the State for the charm of its social intercourse and the elegance of its hospitality.

Among the sons of Dr. Gilmer was the brilliant young lawyer, Francis Gilmer, whose name will always be associated with the birth of the University.

Another son was Dr. John Gilmer of Edgemont, on the Barboursville road.

He was a successful and progressive practitioner, and was the first in this region of the State to attempt the treatment of smallpox by inoculation, about 1802.

At this time the method was not fully developed, and there was an element of danger, which stirred the terrors of the unscientific.

Dr. Gilmer established a hospital for the relief of this disease, presumably on his own plantation, and proceeded with his experiments until a death among his patients brought the popular antagonism to a head.

There were threats of summary action, and it was thought best to carry the difficulty into the County Court, where the humane physician was put under bond for three months "for his good behavior, especially in not alarming the neighborhood in which his hospital is established, unless he fist obtain the consent of the citizens."

The great Coles estate in the Green Mountain neighborhood was not an original grant. About 1769 John Coles II, of Hanover County, purchased from the Eppes grant a tract of 3000 acres, which he named Enniscorthy 18 in memory of the family seat in Leinster, Ireland.

Here he maintained at first a hunting lodge.

Converting this into a permanent home, he lived there in great style and comfort for the remainder of his life.

Becoming, during the War, a Colonel of militia, he was made Commander of the Convention Troops during their imprisonment at The Barracks.

Col. Coles was an enthusiastic turf man and owned one of the finest stables in Virginia.

The partitioning of the property among the Cole's sons resulted in the erection of three other beautiful mansions.

A brick removed from a Woodville chimney bears the workman s initials, and the date 1796, suggesting that the oldest son, Walter, was settled here at that time.

Estouteville first known as Calycanthus Hill, but afterwards renamed in honor of the Baron d' Estouteville, a Norman ancestor is said to have been first built about 1800.

The present beautiful dwelling was begun about 1815, and shows the Jeffersonian influence.

albemarle historic homes

Estouteville was noted for its magnificent conservatories, which during the Civil War furnished the Confederate hospitals in Charlottesville an abundance of fine lemons.

The fourth of these estates was Tallwood, the home of Tucker Coles, who also represented the County in the House of Delegates. Notes 7.

These were Scotch, or Scotch-Irish, emigrants, who had first spent some years in Pennsylvania. Michael Woods came from a family of refinement in Ireland. 8.

These sons-in-law were Andrew and William Wallace, nephews to Michael Woods. Andrew lived near Ivy Depot, on a part of the Hudson Tract, which was later, the home of Charles Harper.

Almost all of his children and their descendants emigrated to the West. William Wallace settled at Piedmont, at the base of the mountains near Greenwood, and this place is still the home of his descendants.

His great-great grand-daughter, Mrs. W. M. Brent, tells us that the early dwelling was burned, the present one being built after 1816.

At Piedmont there still flourish figs and boxwoods, which were obtained from Mr. Jefferson upon his return from France, in exchange for a wagon-load of clover seed. 9. Mrs. John R. Sampson, Kith and Kin. 10. History of Albemarle.

Carter's Mill was the only one in the County, and drew its patronage from a wide radius. 11. Grandson of the George Nicholas who in 1729 patented the third entry in the County.

This younger George was a Revolutionary Colonel, and practiced law in Charlottesville. 12.

The first Belvoir was built by Col. Robert Lewis, grandfather of Meriwether Lewis, and a great landowner. It was later home of Col. John Walker, Aide to Gen. Washington and U. S. Senator.

He built the new house near Grace Church.

By marriage, it passed next to Hugh Nelson, Judge of the Federal Court, member of Congress and Minister to Spain under Monroe.

This celebrated home was burned in 1836, and the estate divided.

Even the magnificent avenue and groves of trees were destroyed which caused the Hon. Wm. C. Rives to remark that the perpetrator "should have left one, upon which to hang himself." Edw. Mead. History of the South West Mountains. 13.

The home of the Pages. An estate of 3700 acres originally called Turkey Hill.

 It is said to have been renamed for the home of the poet Southey, in Cumberland, England, from a resemblance in situation. 14. The birthplace of Gov. Thomas Walker Gilmer. 15.

The home of Col. John Harvie, who bought the 2500-acre tract from a Joshua Graves about the time that Peter Jefferson entered the County.

Col. Harvie was a successful politician and a man of prominence in the early history of the region, having served as guardian to Thomas Jefferson.

In 1811 the estate was sold to the first Dr. Charles Everett. Glenmore contains a part of this grant. 16. Both Gilmer Genealogy and History Of Albemarle . Deed Book No. 9, County Clerk's Office. 17.

This date furnished by the Rev. Roberts Coles of Charlottesville. 18. It will be recalled that it was to Enniscorthy that the Jeffersons refugeed at the time of Tarleton�s Raid.

This was also the girlhood home of the Sallie Colts who became Mrs. Andrew Stevenson. President and Mrs. Madison were guests at Enniscorthy, the charming Dolly being a cousin of her host.

albemarle farm

Enniscorthy

The Formation of Albemarle County

This county was created by act of Legislature in September 1744, from a part of Goochland County.

The act of establishment ordained its existence to begin tile first of January, 1745, and the reason alleged was tile "divers inconveniences attending the upper inhabitants of Goochland by reason of their great distance from tile courthouse and other places usually appointed for public meetings."

Its present length is 35 miles, its mean width 20, and its area 700 sq. miles, but the original boundaries of Albemarle embraced the county of Buckingham, parts of Appomattox and Campbell, and the counties of Amherst, Nelson and Fluvanna, the Blue Ridge being the western line.

The northeastern portion of the present County remained in Louisa sixteen years longer, and there is a tradition that this later readjustment of boundaries was the result of a political rivalry between Dr. Thomas Walker of Castle Hill (which lies in the region ceded) and William Johnson of Louisa, ancestor of Chapman Johnson, finding one county too small for their conflicting ambitions.

In accordance with a custom already begun of commemorating the Governors of the Commonwealth, the name of Albemarle was given to the new county from the title of William Anne Keppel, second Earle of Albemarle, who was Governor-in-Chief of Virginia from 1737 to 1754.

This nobleman probably was never in America, as no record of such a visit exists.

A godchild of Queen Anne, as his second name commemorates, he was a gallant soldier and successful statesman, having served as Lord Justice of the Realm and Ambassador to France.

He died in middle age, a Knight of the Garter, and the father of fifteen children. In his brilliant and crowded life, we may suppose that the giving of his title to a back-woods county appeared to him more of a condescension than an honor.

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Birdwood

The organization of the county took place in February, 1745, doubtless on tile plantation of Mrs. Scott,1 near tile present Scottsville.

Those present were Joshua Fry, Peter Jefferson, Allen Howard, William Cabell, Joseph Thompson and Thomas Ballou.

The oaths taken were those of a Justice of the Peace, and a Judge of a Court of Chancery, and the Abjuration and Test oaths were subscribed-the former renouncing allegiance to the House of Stuart, and the latter affirming the receiving of the Sacrament according to the Church of England.

Scottsville, or Scott's Ferry, as it was originally called, was, until the advent of the railroad, the most important settlement in Albemarle County.

Even at this early date its natural advantages had attracted the pioneers, who found in its smooth water and sheltering hills a promising location.

Then, too, it commanded a wide view of the adjacent low-grounds, and of the James for several miles.

This, at a time when the river was the thoroughfare for hostile Indians or undesirable settlers, was of the first importance.2

Thus it was natural that the first courthouse should have been placed at Scott's Ferry.

Here a courthouse, prison, stocks and pillory were erected, and their location is still pointed out, about a mile west of the present Scottsville, on the estate originally called Belle Grove, but since 1822 known as Valmont.

 It was ordered that this building should be an exact copy of the Goochland courthouse, which, as recorded in the Goochland Order Book No. 2, was "thirty-six feet long and twenty feet wide from outside to outside."

The cost of the Goochland building was ten thousand pounds of tobacco in Cask.

It is said that the tenant's house at Valmont is the Old Courthouse, which was partly demolished and changed to a dwelling (but with the use of the original timbers), a few years after the Revolutionary War.

In accordance with the laws of the Colony, there were at once selected nine magistrates, "of the most honest and discreet inhabitants," who acted without reward.

These magistrates had jurisdiction both civil and criminal.

If the question before them was one of law only, they decided on it themselves, but if it was of fact, it must be referred to a jury.3

That they were not slack in the discharge of punishment is indicated by the following reports 4:

"Eleanor Crawley was sentenced to receive fifteen lashes on her bare back, well laid on, for stealing linen of the value of eleven pence-a little over fifteen cents-and Pearce Reynolds to receive twenty-one for stealing a handkerchief of the same value.

James, a negro of William Cabell, for stealing twelve pence, was burnt in the hand and given thirty-nine lashes at the whipping post.

The Grand Jury presented George McDaniel for profane swearing two oaths in two months."

Notes 1. Widow of Edward Scott, who in 1732 had patented 550 acres "at a place called Totier." Woods' History of Albemarle Authorities: Woods' History of Albemarle; Hardesty's History & Geography Encyclopedia 2.

For our information about Scottsville we are indebted to the kindness of Miss Nannie M. Hill. 3.

The old County Court system of Virginia, which existed down to 1850, was a peculiarly successful method of administering justice with dignity, probity, and freedom of expense.

The magistrates were selected by character and standing, and generally deserved the confidence which they inspired.

With energy and conscientious care they discharged their duties, and achieved a fine record in their judicial decrees.

"These decisions were not often reversed; and it happened more than once that they were sustained by the Court of Appeals against the counter-adjudication of such eminent jurists as Archibald Stuart and Lucas P. Thompson."

The best names in Albemarle appear and reappear in the annals of the Bench.

Mr. Jefferson was elected to this office, but owing to his protracted absences there is no record of his having actually served.

Monroe, however, in 1799, sat regularly. Woods' History of Albemarle County. 4. Copied by Dr. Woods from the Court Records.

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Colonel John Mosby